Sun Screen My Ass!

September 2, 2010

I spent a lot of hours researching the technical aspects of this adventure. Out of all the personal accounts and related websites that listed necessary items to bring along I have to say they ALL included sun screen. After the last three days above 6,000 feet for the better part of 8 hours each day… I’m toast. Really I mean it toast! My forearms and legs are a nice fire burnt red, my neck and face are about the same!
Needless to say I did NOT bring any sun screen, nor did I bring a ball cap.

This burn is about the same as my last trip to Hawaii or better yet my trip to Bonaire, oh this is going to hurt!

I’m in Linthal Switzerland now and I am going to take few days to “cool off” and see about finding some lotion for sun burns and a nice cap to keep the sun off of my face!

Not the best serial killer photo I could take but after ascending and descending 12,000 feet on a cloudless hot day in the Alps, it’s the best you get for now.

D.

Too Busy

August 15, 2010

I’ve been really busy these past few weeks. Work has been very steady, my boat trailer is broke down on the side of the road, I’m headed for vacation next week, late night Fire & EMS calls, then trying to keep sane by squeezing in hiking, kite boarding and music is leaving me with not much time left.

I did manage to get a few photos the past few days that I like. The Salmon Berries are starting to get ripe and ready for picking. I’m going to miss berry season this year. I usually make a few jellies and syrups from the salmon and blue berries.  if you click the image, it should open a larger version.  Then depending on your browser you may be able to see it in an even larger version by clicking on it again.

The image below is of the sun rise this morning.  Whats that saying… Red skies at night, sailors delight, red skies in the morning, heed the warning… or something like that.

I have a few things left to do before I go on vacation, but I think I’m about ready.  I’ m surprised that this adventure came together as quick and easily (and by easily I mean affordable) for such a short planning time.

Summer has been pretty good so far this year.  I have not had a chance to go camping but I have got a lot of fishing and hiking in.  Were having a fair number of tourists and visitors this year, lots of folks coming in on the ferry to tour the island.  Several hikers and campers have come out to explore the island as well.  The weather has been exceptionally well as far as I’m concerned.  Plenty of was blue skies and calm winds.  (there is always room for more though).

Even though posts have been sparse here lately, this week I’ll try and get a few more.  After the weekend it could be a month before I get a change to post again.

Via Alpina.. and then some

August 14, 2010

After reviewing the endless route choices and trail systems in the Alps I became so overwhelmed with options that I would plan to follow the traditional well published Via Alpina route and if alternate routes seemed better, I would just deviate on the fly.  So sticking with my original start in Feldkirch Austria, passing through Vaduz and connecting with the start of the Via Alpina in Sargans Switzerland.  Following the Via Alpina through to Rochers de Naye and from there altering the route, heading south so that I end up in Saint Gingolph France instead of  Montreux Switzerland.

Although not really excited that each day takes me through a town or village, I am happy that it will allow me to carry less since I can resupply daily.  It seems most people who hike this route don’t take camping gear (camping in the Alps is frowned upon) but instead make arrangements at each town for lodging.  I suppose that is an option but for now, I’m still planning on camping either in the mountains or by making arrangements with local farmers.  It’s said that often approaching the farmers and asking to buy food items from them, that they will usually let you camp on the edge of their property.  I’ll let you know how that goes…

I will be taking my SPOT again this year, so live satellite tracking will be available for you to follow along.  I’ll be posting a new page just before I leave for your to bookmark and to follow along.  The only time during the trek I think I might post an update is if I take rest days in a town.  Other than that, there wont be any action on the site.

Here are the sections of the route.

• Feldkirch, Austria ~ Vaduz, Liechtenstein
• Vaduz ~ Sargans, Switzerland
• Sargans ~ Weisstannen
• Weisstannen ~ Elm
• Elm ~ Linthal
• Linthal ~ Urner Boden
• Urner Boden ~ Altdorf
• Altdorf ~ Engleberg
• Engleberg ~ Engstlenalp
• Engstlenalp ~ Meiringen
• Meiringen ~ Grindewald
• Grindewalk ~ Laurterbrunnen
• Laurterbrunnen ~ Griesalp
• Griesalp ~ Kandersteg
• Kandersteg ~ Adelboden
• Adelboden ~ Lenk
• Lenk ~ Gstaad
• Gstaad ~ L’etivaz
• L’etivaz ~ Rochers de Naye
• Rochers de Naye ~ Villeneuve
• Villeneuve ~ Saint Gingolph, France

Upper Summers Bay Trail

August 9, 2010

Yesterday Dakota wanted to get out and play, we decided to go check on a possible cave we had spotted the week earlier while hike around on some of the local trails and ridges above Unalaska.   The official name of the trail we were going to explore is called Upper Summers Bay.  It’s two miles round trip and is classified as difficult.  I agree that it is difficult but not a strenuous kind of difficult.  Actually I think it’s dangerous.  This trail is

seldom used.  In fact crossing several winter run-off mud slides I didn’t see one track , leading me to believe that Dakota and I are the only ones who have been there this year.

For this hike we started at the pass of Overland Drive again and followed the Upper Mount Newhall Trail about 2/3 of the way around towards Ski Bowl.  From there we left the trail and headed in the direction of where the cave might be.  It took a little while and added another mile or so to the hike, but we finally found and confirmed a cave hidden on the SW face of a small gully.  I find it interesting because there are no trails or paths around it, although about a quarter mile away there is debris from some old structures that have long been blown over.

I’m not showing the location of the cave here, I’m saving it and will be posting a Geo Cache.  I’m not sure yet what to  place in it, but I want to make it fun and adventurous for people who decide to get out and find it.

From here we made our way back to the trail.  It took about thirty minutes or so to get back on track and from there we headed to the end of the trail.  The weather was good although windy but we had some great views of Summers Bay, Illuliak Bay and the Bering Sea.

This next part might confuse people.  I’m going to start the trail report in the normal manner from start to finish, however the images were all taken as you come BACK FROM the end of the trail, that is why they look towards Ski Bowl.

From the pass at Ski Bowl, looking NE I’ve hammered a post in to where the trail starts and placed some rocks around it.  I don’t expect that to last very long with the winds that roll over the pass but, it should last the summer.  The trail takes off and remains fairly level.  Almost immediately your going to pass a small man made cave on your left.  I’m sure it was used for something when the military was around.   There used to be several shacks at the pass for when there was an old tow rope system for skiing there.

The first part of the trail is in pretty good shape, after a few minutes your going to cross some scree and washed out areas of the trail.  These areas are very dangerous.  The trail is not used often and what would normally be packed down and secure is exactly opposite.  The trail across mud and scree is very loose and unstable.  I warn you of this because if you lose your footing you could slide and fall a few hundred feet.

There are several sections of the trail that are not together.  What I mean by this is that the trail might end and then you have to climb up or down several feet over and around cliff faces to get back on the trail.  It’s at this point I’d like to suggest that you do not attempt this trail unless your really good

on your feet.  There were three sections of trail that bothered me enough to make sure I wrote that they actually bothered me.
Another suggestive point I’d like to pass on is that if it is really windy, rainy (or the ground is wet) or if it’s foggy please don’t try this section of trail unless your familiar with it.  It is difficult enough in good weather.

Keep your head up and look forward along the sections of the trail that are visible, this will keep you at the right elevation.  There are several sections of the trail that are over grown with grass flowers

and ferns.  I’ve said this before if you see a track of ferns – that is probably the trail so if you do loose your way, see if the ferns can help (I have a photo of this in the gallery)

Although this trail is short by itself, you can connect the Ski Bowl Trail or the Upper Mount Newhall Trail with it to make a nice half day trip.  As I’ve said the trail isn’t used much and because of this there are several sections where the trail is no wider than your foot – so again, be careful and keep steady footing.

The end of the trail just kind of fades away near the end of the mountain ridge.  From there you can make your way on fairly flat ground again with great views of Summers Bay & Lake, Split Top Mountain, Mt. Coxcomb, Overland Drive, Ugadaga Bay, Peace of Mind, Beaver Inlet and the entire valley Summers Bay rests in.

There is no protection from the elements there, so even if it’s nice out, pack for the other just in case.  If your taking a dog you might want to consider packing some water as there isn’t any water from the pass out.  Dakota never stays on the trail long, she is always chasing after ground squirrels, birds and rocks.  This makes her very hot and thirsty.  Also if you feel like camping, there are several spots at the end of the trail that are flat and grassy and would offer some great tenting.  Just remember to tie everything down well.

For the rest of the Upper Summers Bay Trail photographs, check out the gallery. (still uploading them)

Agamgic Bay Trail

August 4, 2010

The weather has been pretty good the past week or so, and by good I mean it’s not raining, foggy or windy at the same time.  I took the afternoon to make a quick trip down the Agamgic Bay Trail.  This is noted as being easy and four miles in length (one way).  I agree with that.  This is a good trail to take your mind away from the world and just kind of go.

Getting to this trail however requires getting to the unmarked trail head out of town on Summers Bay Road.  Make your way to Summers Bay Lake and continue NE past the turn off of Overland Drive that boarders Summers Bay Lake.  The road will wind upwards past some old gun mounts and ammunition depots, eventually coming back down to the turn off to Humpy Cover on the left.  Stay to the right and continue for a few more minutes.  You will reach a little turnout just as you approach a small wooden bridge.  Park here and out of the way – it is time to start hiking!

The trail start on the old road to the right of the bridge.  Follow that down and around, you will come to an old steel bridge that is rusting away.  At the time of this writing the bridge was still solid enough to walk on, but cross it at your own risk.  Just past the bridge the trail is going to fork, take the left fork following the creek.

Your first opportunity to get off the trail is just ahead, the trail is going to spur off again to the left to continue

following the creek.  I have placed a block of wood to get your attention, but if it’s removed or falls over you could walk right past it and end up climbing to a dead end in the foot hills of the mountains ahead.  You should be able to see the trail taking off to the left, and again it follows the creek so keep your head up.

The trail is visible most of the time, so don’t concern yourself with getting lost or off track too much.

After a few minutes of hiking your going to come to a valley creek crossing.  Someone has graciously added stakes with knotted rope to make your descent and ascent easier.  Otherwise using your trekking poles will work just as well.  If the grass and mud are wet, I can assure you that it will be very slippery – so be careful when crossing this gully.

Climbing out of the gully the trail continues at an even plane and wanders around hills, fields of flowers  and little streams.  I’ll take this moment to say the views headed out to the bay are not as eventful as the views coming back.  Everything seems to be smooth and blurs together.
There is another creek crossing you have to navigate.

Yesterday the water was low enough to walk on the rocks on the creek without getting wet.  I’ve been there at other times when the creek is raging.  If you encounter that, I’d say throw on the flip flops if you have them or wade bare feet.  If that is not an option, then head SE following the creek up towards the mountains, about 100 feet or so you will find that the creek narrows and can be jumped across, then make your way down the creek back to he trail.

Continuing, the trail is good and straight forward, your next opportunity to get off the trail, is just a head at the next creek crossing.  Years ago the trail was obvious and led you to the creek for a one step crossing.  The wild horses recently have tracked along

the creek so much up towards the mountain that it looks like that is the trail now.  I have placed a large rock on the left side of the trail that leads you to the crossing.  Someone else has placed a rock near the creek crossing adjacent to the trail continuing on.  So if you go from a single track trail to a major horse track along the creek heading up, your going the wrong way.  Just look to your left across the creek and you will see the trail on the other side.

The next section of trail is pretty easy with a slight decent through a gully.  Easy going down and might take a few minutes to get back up, but again the trail is really obvious.   Your going to round a hill and get your first glimpse of Agamgic Bay, Beaver Inlet, and Sedanka Island.  The trail continues on

from here almost down to the waters edge.  The blue Berries and Salmon Berries here are fantastic!  You just need to get there before I do to get them.

Just before you start your way down to the water, your going to pass a bog on your right.  Just as the bog starts to narrow and create a valley with run off making a creek, there is another trail that breaks off to the right.  It’s not used much any more though so it can be difficult to find.  It used to lead to Drakes Inn which was a great Quonset cabin that had been built up and maintained by the locals.  Tragically it burned down about four years ago.  If you can find the trail, head on over, climb up above the debris for some more great views of the bay.

From the end of the trail, you can follow the coast line almost due north.  The large valley your facing leads over to English bay.  I spent four days camping there over Christmas few years ago.  I’ll post the link to that hike here when I find it.  Although the hike was in the middle of winter I think you might enjoy reading about it and looking at the pictures.

For more pictures of the Agamgic Bay hike, check out the gallery.

Illuliak Bay Overlook

July 30, 2010

This trail officially is documented as being 1/2 mile and of moderate difficulty.  The trail starts on Summers Bay road just past the land fill and is a serious of switchbacks that climb in elevation about 300 feet.  The trial ends in a chute that you would follow to the top of the ridge.  That is where it officially stops.  Form there however you can follow the ridge north continuing to climb in elevation eventually reaching the summit of Mt. Newhall.  You could make your way down the Mt. Newhall trail or continue on the Upper Mount Newhall trail to Ski Bow and beyond to Overland Drive.

The pictures I have included here are a continuation from the Upper Mount Newhall trail coming FROM Overland Drive.

Either direction will bring you to several steep inclines both ascending and descending throughout the trail.  Getting to the summit from the Overland Drive side will require you navigate over a steep and narrow knife edge.  Alternatively crossing behind it on the east side gives you something of a climb but on relative flat grass and flower covered ground.

Making your way from Mount Newhall towards the Illuliak Bay Overlook is easy with some minor up hill climbs and a quite a few descents.

There is one climb of about 8 feet or so that will require hand and foot climbing,  There is no safe ground around it.  You could try going around the back side which would be on the SE side.  I say this because of the two sides to try and go around the NW side has a near vertical fall of several hundred feet, the other is just as steep but on about thirty feet or so.  Again, I suggest cinching your pack and making your way up over it.

Continuing on, you will be following the ridge just above the landfill and parallel to Summers Bay road.  At this point the rest of the hike is all gradual descent.  If you enjoy taking panoramic photographs, this entire section gives you great views of Captains Bay, Downtown Unalaska, Amaknak Island, Hog Island, Mount Ballyhoo, Ulakta Head, and the areas of Nateekin Bay, Broad Bay, Wide Bay and Eider Point.  You can also get some great shots of Split Top Mountain and Constantine Point.

The descent start from the remains of the small structures that used to be up there.  You may not see the wood and debris left under the grass, but you can definitely see the dug out shells and foundations.  From them locate the chute on the NW side of the ridge.  If you get to the edge you can look straight down and see Summers Bay road.  GO TO THE LEFT of the chute to a small channel that is not as steep as the chute and provides good traction.  Make your way down about 120 feet to a small outcropping point.  This is a good place to rest your feet and ankles if your footwear doesn’t fit well.

From the outcropping look SW parallel to the mountain your descending.  Look down another 80 feet

or so and you should see an obvious trail that just appears out of the grass and make way for it.  This is the top of the switchbacks that will take you all the way down to the road.  If your in a hurry, you can just make your own way down to the road, your out of danger in regards to cliffs and scree as long as you head towards town.

For a few more pictures check out the Illuliak Bay Overlook trail gallery.

Mount Newhall Trail

July 29, 2010

Another good hiking trail (once you get to it) is the Mount Newhall Trail.  I guess technically it starts (or) ends at the Overland Drive summit and the same could be said for the cemetery along Summers Bay Road.  This brief description is a continuation from the Overland Drive side.
The trail is documented as being 21/2 miles in length and of moderate difficulty.  Again, in my opinion there are only a few things that makes this hike a little difficult.  The big thing is that the trail disappears for a while, this forces you descend and side hill at the same time to pick up the trail just above the cemetery.  This can be difficult if it is raining or foggy.

I started from the summit of Overland Drive.  The trail is obvious and takes off almost due west along another mountain ridge.  This part of the hike is fairly straight forward.  The only other reasons I would think to call it moderate is because of another scree / talus field after the ski bowl summit.

As you take off,  there is one minor ascent of about 30 feet and a small steep cliff that you need to round, but after that your going to experience pretty easy hiking crossing below Gateway Peak and eventually

reaching to saddle at Ski Bowl.

At Ski Bowl your going to see the remains of several shacks that used to house the tow rope ski lift system from when the military developed and used the area for instructional and recreational ski purposes (thus the name Ski Bowl)

When you make your approach to the saddle you will be heading due north and have a pretty good view of ‘the valley’ of Unalaska, also called the ‘other side’ if you live on Amaknak Island (also referred to as Dutch Harbor).

From here the trail is washed away, but from the saddle if you look down and to your right, you will see it below you about 60 feet.  It’s an easy transition to make your way down to the trail.

Again the trail is straight forward until you reach the scree and small boulder field.  Keep your direction and watch your footing.   The trail ends just a few minutes after that in a small alpine grass field near where the three ridges around you meet up.

The trail map shows the trail continuing along the ridge line to your left then spuring off.  You can follow the ridge to the summit of Mt. Newhall or you can start your descent to where the trail proper picks up.

Since your there, I’d take another few minutes and follow the ridge up to the summit, then if you feel like calling it a day, back track down and make your way to the cemetery.

However, for something a little extra and some more good views,

read my next post where I continue from the summit of Mount Newhall along the ridge and connect to the Illuliak Bay Overlook trail.

For more pictures taken on the Mount Newhall Trail, check out the photo gallery.

You can also check out other hikes from around the island by clicking on the Hobbies menu at the top of the page and then choose Hiking.

Overland Drive East Loop

July 28, 2010

This 31/2 mile trail is one of my favorites on the island.  While it’s noted on our local trail map is being of moderate difficulty this hike can be done in about an hour and fifteen minutes once your familiar with the tricky spots.

Starting at the summit of Overland Drive, the trail is unmarked and leads off of the SE side of the road.  There is enough room at the summit for several cars to park and still allow for traffic to make way along the road.

The trail starts off at an even 1100 feet and heads east, side hill’ing the mountain on your left and provides a great view of Ugadaga Valley, Ugadaga Bay, Beaver Inlet and Sedank Island.

The trail path is clearly visible for most of the hike.  There are several spots in which loose scree and winter runoff

have washed out the trail.  These areas require steady footing and  intuitive heading skills.  This means you should be able to navigate to the trail again without having to search for it.

In several spots along the trail you will notice old two wire communication lines exposed on the ground.  These lines are left over from 1940′s when the military had remote search light and fire control stations around most of the bays and inlets surrounding Unalaska and Dutch Harbor.

While maintaining the 1100 foot elevation it is fair to warn you that there are several spots along the trail that are sheer drops of several hundred feet or more, falling from there could cause serious injury so I encourage you to make sure you have good traction, foot support and I always take my trekking poles for added stability.

Making your away around to the NE side of the mountain (which should still be on your left) the trail is going to end at a shallow (muddy) pond.  If you need water, fill up on the little stream of water feeding it.  This is the only moving naturally filtered water on the trail.

This pond starts the section of the hike I call Lost Meadow.  Only because several people not familiar with the area turn around and hike back because they cant find the trail.  Often the fog is so thick you can’t see more than 50 feet, making navigation difficult without reference.

If you have a compass, make your way West/NW straight through the meadow.  If you can see, use the far peak triangular in shape directly in front of you (you should be facing west) and head straight for it.

You should eventually reach a knob with a view of Summers Bay off to the right.  To your left you will see a chute and the trail picks up there and should be clearly visible.

Making your way NW along the trail, the only part giving people trouble is the trail becomes over grown with grass and flowers in a small plateau.  Three Cairns have been placed to guide

you back to to the trail and are visible in either direction.

Continuing on you will make your way back around to your starting point at the summit.

Some things to take in to consideration are often it is foggy and visibility can be a factor.  Bring a compass just to keep you in the right direction.  I use trekking poles on all my hikes, they are invaluable.  When it’s raining the sections of scree and talus can be very dangerous so I’d avoid those sections.  Lastly the winds here are sometimes very strong (40+ mph or more) and through the valleys this hike follows it can get whipping.

Happy Hiking

Dan

For more pictures of this hike, please visit the Overland Drive East Loop photo gallery.

A Change In Adventures

July 22, 2010

An opportunity to trek the Swiss Alps has presented it self and I took it.  I was supposed to trek across the island again, then a short seven day trek in the Cascades followed by a week on a beach on the Big Island of Hawaii – BUT the calling of an international trip was too much to resist.
I’m really excited, although short notice in regards to planning and logistics I”ve already got plane, train and bus tickets and the logistics and route are all in place.

Leaving in late August I’ll be making my way to Geneva Switzerland where after a day or so I travel by train and bus to a little Austrian town called Feldkirch in the foot hills of the Austrian Alps.  I’ll follow an old smugglers route up and over into the very small country of Liechtenstein.  Descending into the capital of Vaduz.  Continuing along the river Rhine, I’ll cross over into Switzerland again near the town of Sargans.

From there I’ll spend the next 18 to 22 days trekking through the Swiss Alps occasionally coming down to resupply and check in with the locals.

I’ve patched together 18 different hiking routes that closely follow the famous Alpine Pass Route, I added the crossing of Liechtenstein in the beginning and in the end I’ll cross over into France calling the trek finished in Saint Gingolph.

With any luck I’ll have a few days to actually rest and relax – maybe by rail to a few other countries that will let me in with just a passport and expedition pack!

Bering Sea Sockeye Salmon

July 7, 2010

More images of these two fishing trips in the gallery.

If there is one thing out here that most of the locals talk about when it comes to sport and subsistence fishing, it’s the arrival of the Sockeye Salmon at McLees Lake and Reese Bay.  The past few years the fishing has been hit and miss.  Fish and Game would close the area around the rivers outlet to the bay until at least 10,000 fish passed through the fish weir to the lake, then the area from the outlet and around the bay would be open for gill netting.  In the past the immediate area would remain closed until the first or second week of July.

This year however, the escapement number was reach early and the area around the river outlet was opened to fishing.  Jennifer, Shari and I made plans to head out early on Friday to go fishing.  We took two boats and headed out about 0800.   We ended up with 32 fish in just over and hour.  It was fun fast fishing, we were certainly happy with our catch.

I had also made plans to fish with Aura the following Monday.  Earlier in the year she had ordered a net and was very anxious to get it in the water and see it fish.  Originally we were going to meet up and leave about 0530.  However I was on fire watch with the fire department and ended spending my Fourth of July night putting out unattended (abandoned) bon fires until about 0300.  So we ended up leaving about 0730 instead.

We headed around to the bay, we were the first ones there.  It took a little bit to figure out the best location to fish her net, once we got it dialed in – it fished very well, netting fish every few minutes.  After a few hours we packed up and headed back.  She was happy with her net, and the fish it caught.

Once we got back to the dock, we cleaned up the boat and I started to fillet the salmon.  I keep the roe (eggs) also, I like to cure them and use them as bait for Silver Salmon (coho) later this year.  I have a large batch of salmon that are in

a nice dry brine getting ready to head to the smoker, and the rest I vacuum sealed with a variety of seasonings and put them them in the freezer.

All in all, two good fishing trips, and a few good pictures.  I believe I ended up with 18 fish for myself.  I could use  a few more though.

More images of these two fishing trips in the gallery.

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